We woke up today with a dense fog outside of the lodge. When we arrived at the beach for our morning session, the fog was so intense that you could barely see the water… Only the sound of the breaking waves made us realise that the promised upcoming swell had already arrived.
It’s a scary, but at the same time exciting, experience paddling into the unknown! A mix of feelings envelops you. Only being able to see 5 meters all around you, all of your other senses become much more aware and alert!
The dense fog kept the wind away and the water was glassy as can be. Then out of the fog, all of a sudden, the first waves we could see started to break right in front of us. Anticipating what ended up being a perfect (and empty) half meter wave. That’s right… Perfect waves, and no one around but us.
We surfed close to 2 hours alone, and as soon as the fog started to disappear, the first surfers joined us in the water. Sometimes it pays off to wake up early and face adverse conditions to find “Gold”.
Video credits to Chris, our guest from France.